We got an early start thinking that we wanted to ride the desert early to avoid the big heat. The gas station guy said we were on the wrong road – the other road is “mas rapido” – we backtracked for a bit and decided the GPS was “mas smarter” than the gas station guy (GPS vs. GSG) – so we headed out in the original direction.
After a bit it was apparent we were on the wrong road – 35kph max speed (22 MPH) for first 45 or so miles “urban Zona”– then only up to 60kph – but surface was excellent and everyone was speeding so we hung in there – It kinda paralleled the big highway in the desert. But this one was along the hills in the trees. It would get us there. As time went by the road won us over. We were able to go about 70mph and there were no trucks, busses or cars. It really does get old breathing diesel smoke from the clapped out busses. So the fresh air was a treat. Lots of awesome scenery and in the end it only cost us maybe 45 minutes more.
After about 150 miles the road met back up with the main PanAm and we blasted across barren wasteland. We were ripping along at about 90mph. The wind was blowing strong, seemingly from every direction at times. Sand was blowing across road and sometimes dunes encroached right up into the edge of the lane… Big areas of absolutely nothing and then areas where tons and tons of garbage dumped…
Then you would descend a couple of hundred feet into a river wash and it would be swarming with farms, rice, sugar cane, and processing plants. It was truly strange seeing some of the most thirsty plants growing in the middle of a desert. As well as the contrasting colors from all shades of brown, to amazingly lush green fields. 5 miles later it was back to sand and rock with nothing in sight for miles in every direction.
We rolled into Trujillo with a hotel in mind. Dan had done his homework and had the GPS coordinates loaded. After little trouble we arrived at the hotel. Only to find out they had no secure parking… We started roaming around looking for a hotel again. These seem to be the hardest times for us. Were both shelled after baking in the sun and the towns are not easy to find a logical pattern to the streets. Both of us have ideas on how to drive around and look for a place and they’re not always the same ideas….After a long day of riding we both just want to call it a day and finding a suitable place is not as easy as it may seem.
We did find a place though and after checking in we went for a walk around town and had dinner.
Tomorrow we head up into the white mountains – the Cordillera Blanca – with some 35 peaks over 20,000 foot elevation and the road in the valley at 13,200 foot it should be beautiful and a challenge for us and the bikes.
Cheers!
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