We spent the night in Creel and it was an interesting town. Our “Spidy Sense” went off as soon as we cruised into town. Then after checking into the nicest hotel. We walked into town for something to eat. We passed about a dozen cops out in full armer including combat helmets, machine guns and a truck with a mounted turret…. There were very few people out and about and it felt just plain wierd…. We walked by one hotel and the parking lot was full of about 30 or 40 police in riot gear (helmets, vests, the works…) We had a pizza and got our asses back to the hotel bar for a beer.

Before blowing out of town in the morning John wanted to do a few laps on an Italian bike – I had a pocketful of 2 pesos coins and John put in a few hot laps and then switched to qualifying tires for a speed run – he was disappointed when I ran out of coins…While he was on it from across the street some guys were yelling Vroom Vroom!!
Todays ride was unreal. We got a late start partially on purpose to avoid traffic down the canyon road and also trying to take care of as much computer stuff as possible while we had internet connection. The road heading south of Creel was spectacular as usual – with lots of twisty sections, elevation up, down and nice new clean pavement -

The terrain also began to change with lots of rock outcroppings and interesting rock formations.


We had probably 50 miles of nice asphalt road leading up to the turn down to Batopilas. We missed the turn the first time because it wasn’t marked but after 3 or 4 miles we decided to turn around and found a sign. We had been told the road was horrendous and that it would be a challenge – so we were very surprised to see the road as you see here on the right – a super highway of gravel roads. We both were wondering what everyone was talking about – after about 10 miles we ran into the road crew who were rebuilding the road and after that the road slowly degraded until it reached the rim of the canyon.

From the rim of the canyon down to the river at the bottom the road switches back and forth to descend 4500 feet in about 5 or so miles!!! It then continues along the river following a clif ridge up and down for another 15 miles into Batopilas. There must have been 25 plus Very narrow steep switchbacks. The road surface varies from loose sand to softball size rocks. Lots of washboards. Most of the road is not wide enough for two cars and barely wide enough for a truck. With no guard rails and drops ranging from 100 feet to 4000 Feet!!!! Very technical riding and very taxing. In the picture on the left – those are roads about a zillion miles down in the canyon!

If you look at the picture below closley in the right switchback, you will see a dot in the middle of the road – that is one of us in the distance to give you some scale of the magnitude


All along the road there are these worship shrines and memorials to people who failed to negotiate the road. If you left the road anywhere you were not going to survive. So folks would stop and pray before, during and after traversing cetian sections of the road.

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So after Decending 4500 feet of technical switch backs, rocks, narrow roads and the like. We came to this simple little bridge crossing. I (John) unfortanatly was in front when we got there and without thinking I started across on the boards running length wise. My front tire got caught in the grooves between the boards and I lost balance. I went to put my foot down and it was in the middle of the two tracks. As you can see the middle is about 6 inches lower than the raised parts. As I started to fall over I had Dan in my ears saying “There he goes!! There he goes!!” Much to Dans delight I was instantly on my side with him laughing in my helmet. (we have a comm device that allows us to talk while on the bikes.) Prior to falling I thought the comm device was a good idea. Anyway we picked it up and the only damage was to my pride, so we continued on another 15 or 20 miles of nasty roads to Batopilas.
So let the crap fly in the comments people. I assure you its no worse that what Dan has already given me ;-)

Batopilas is a neat little town. It was settled in the 1600’s due to silver being mined in the cayon. It is between the clif and the river. Very narrow and long. Pretty much one street with a nice little town center. When we got there we saw 3 bikes in a hotel lot so we checked in there and met 3 guys from Colorado on KTM’s. While Dan was checking in these cute little girls came over and started trying to chat with me. I was surprised to see some of my Spanish working. I guess I have the Spanish of 6 year olds. If they were only the ones that run stores and hotels I would be set. Anyway I asked If i could take thier picture and they were hesitant. After I took a picture I showed them it on the camera screen. They both lit up and wanted to pose for a better one. Very cute, Don’t you think?

No rain today – not a drop – when we got Batopilas we were super dusty from the 50 miles of gravel, silt and dust.